This journal will record the building of my hot rod MG. A few years ago, I acquired a 1963 Buick 215 aluminum V8 engine. I knew that I wanted to install the engine into a sports car, I just didn’t know which one. I also wanted to stay old school with this build, so I was going to need a body shell built pre smog control. The body would need to be strong enough to handle the extra horsepower and torque. I prefer to work in steel, so fiberglass was out of the question. I knew that I could build the motor to put out 300 hp, now I needed a body that weighed less than 2500 lbs. I chose the MGB for a number of reasons. Many MGBs have been converted to the Buick/Rover V8 and the engineering has already been worked out. The special conversion parts can be bought over the counter, and most of all, MGBs are inexpensive and available.

I located a donor car, near to my location. The owner was willing to give me the car if I hauled away two other MGs, with it. They always seem to come in groups of two or more! One car was a 69GT with more rust than metal. It did have some nice bits, that I may be able to use. The second car was a 73 roadster. This car will most likely be restored. The body has the expected rust in the floors and rockers, but it is complete. The third car is a 66 GT. This car has been stripped of the running gear and the interior. I assume that someone used this car as a parts donor. The body had some rust damage that would need to be addressed, but the price was right.

I have been collecting parts for this project, since I made the decision to build it. First came the engine, followed by the body shell. I was able to obtain a T5 transmission from a Camaro and an independent rear axle from a Jaguar. The rear would have to be narrowed but that would allow me set the rear track to fit my needs. I have decided to stay with the MGB front suspension. I am planning to use a coil over shock conversion with adjustable control arms and racing brakes. One of my customers gave me a set of bottleneck wheels, from the sixties. The wheels are 14 X 7 inches, aluminum with a Ford 5 bolt pattern. I can redrill the Jag hubs in the rear and buy adapters for the front hubs. The front adapters would widen the front track by 2 inches. If these wheels can be used, they would give the car a nice sixties style. I have always liked this style of wheel, and I hope that I will be able to use them on this car. Finally, I have picked up another donor car, a 71 roadster. This car has the bolt on front hubs. The original front suspension, came with wire wheels, which will not work with the adapters or my wheels. Now it was time to start building!

I removed the front and rear suspensions and mounted the body on a rotisserie. The first step was to repair the rust damage. I replaced the floors with new 18guage steel. Normally I would have purchased new floor panels, but I had the metal in stock and there was no need to keep to original panels. The outer sill panels were perforated with rust. Again, the new sill panels are available and are not expensive, however I fabricated new panels from 20 guage steel.

Now that the rust was gone, I started making some changes to the body shell. I started by separating the inner and outer rear wheel houses. I widened the rear wheel houses by 2.5 inches. This would allow for a 10 inch wide tire to fit within the wheel house. Flaring the rear fenders, in this manner, retains the same wheel opening and profile of the original design. Next I formed exterior flares out of 20 guage steel. I did this the old fashioned way, with a shot bag. a hammer, and an english wheel. When I am fabricating something with compound curves and shapes, I find that it is easier to build the panel in sections. I first fabricated and installed the center sections, over the wheels, followed by the front and rear vertical sections. The extra welds require more grinding, but allow for more consistent shapes from side to side.

The next modification was to the rear floor. I wanted to run dual exhaust. This meant that the fuel tank would be an obstruction to the exhaust. So I took out the spare tire well and raised the floor. This would allow me to center the tank and still leave room, underneath, for the two mufflers. I know what you are thinking, Where is he going to put the spare tire? My answer is, who needs a spare in a car like this! I have not decided which fuel tank to use or where the filler neck will be. I may place the filler cap on the sail panel or possibly in the center of the rear body panel. I am thinking of hiding the cap behind an emblem or badge.

My plans for the future are to flare the front fenders, fabricate a front air dam/spoiler, fabricate a rear spoiler, install louvers in the bonnet or fenders (for engine cooling), and fabricate some type of scoop for the bonnet. I am also planning to remove the front parking lamps, from the fenders, and recess them into the grille. I am still undecided on the interior and some of the exterior trim. Sometimes you need to see what the car looks like before you can tell which details are right for this car. I have a pretty good idea of what the car will look like, however all projects of this size, tend to evolve into something other than what you expected.